Good Bad and your Ugly

22 03 2010

A tale of two surfs,
Saturday forced to get up at the unholy hour of 6.00 am. What is it with surfers obsession with dawnies, getting up early to beat the crowd doesn’t work when it’s the crowd that does the getting up early. I reckon somwhere between 9 and 11 is the new dawnie. still there were’t many out but that was because it was shit.
Well at least thats what i first thought but upon some outback thoughts and analysis it turns out it wasn’t. It was at best waist high, well for me anyway for Kimbo Dave it was overhead but he is a stunted little fucker, it was sloppy with waves that looked like they were gonna wall up nicely until you turn your head away to paddle for them and they would disappear from under you, It was raining and cold. So it’s easy to see why I thought it was shit at first. But on reflection there were never more than 6 or 7 out it was a typical south coast surf session waist high weak as piss, cold and raining, in fact we decided it was slightly better than normal there was the lack of crowd, a normal day at the peir like this and there’d be 30 or 40, guess they were all watching the comp at Boscombe were the waves were even worse.
Friday on the other hand was well above average
1 30pm I was the only one out
only waist to chest but steep and fast
did I mention I was the only one out? well for an hour but I was glad when I was joined by another it was getting tiring having all those waves to myself.
it may be shit on the south coast but so am I. Generally speaking were well matched.
for most of the time were a shitty sloppy embarrassment but sometimes were good especially when no one else is looking 😉

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